The Environmentalist’s Guide to Building A Sustainable Wardrobe

“Fashion is very important. It is life-enhancing and, like everything that gives pleasure, it is worth doing well.” – Vivienne Westwood.

Throughout history, cultures from around the world have celebrated the eclectic nature of fashion. Depicting a sense of time and place, the evergreen love affair between style and self-expression has shaped dynasties and defined eras alike. The 21st Century has seen fashion augment to such great heights that in order to maintain the insatiable consumer culture that drives today’s generations, we have become reckless and are in danger of permanently damaging our planet. In a recent report from the IPCC, french climate scientist Masson-Delmotte reports, “It has been clear for decades that the Earth’s climate is changing, and the role of human influence on the climate system is undisputed.”. The United Nations claims that the fashion industry is responsible for about 8% of the total carbon emissions worldwide, accounts for more than 20% of wastewater globally, and is believed to be the second-most polluting industry in the world.

“If you are buying fast fashion then you are contributing to that industry and encouraging them to expand and encouraging them to continue their harmful process. Of course, I understand that for some people fashion is a big part of how they want to express themselves and their identity.”—Greta Thunberg.

This past week saw Vogue Scandinavia’s premier issue release, and gracing the cover is non-other than climate activist Greta Thunberg. In her feature, she frankly addresses the harmful nature of fast fashion and on Twitter, drew attention to the article saying, “The fashion industry is a huge contributor to the climate-and ecological emergency, not to mention its impact on the countless workers and communities who are being exploited around the world in order for some to enjoy fast fashion that many treat as disposables.” One must ask themselves if this is the legacy 21st-century fashion will leave behind, playing a massive role in the destruction of the planet? Or, will this be the moment in history where we are remembered for protecting the decades of fashion to come? Only by returning to natural and biodegradable fabrics and abiding by intentional and sustainable fashion practices do we stand a chance.

“Of course if we constantly consume, and want more and more, and want bigger and better, than we set a precedent for other parts of the world to follow. We need to change that sense of value from the roots. We should want clean water, we should want unpolluted air and fresh foods, but instead we want more and more things. Those things aren’t going to make us happy. Most people know this, but it’s so hard to change the way we feel.”

—Iris Alexandrov Klum.

Thankfully, sustainable living and eco-conscious consumerism have been on the rise. An increasing number of fashion brands have taken the initiative to restructure their operations in order to comply with more environmentally friendly protocols. Individuals have begun to look at their shopping habits with a keen eye, desiring a fresh and more mindful perspective to their method of self-expression. The truth of the matter is, the fashion industry is one of the leading contributors to climate change. Where fashion once was about celebrating the beauty of garment and consumer, it now needs to be a declaration of the times. One where we stand up and fight the age-old lies society has incessantly been whispering in our ears.

With that being said, I’d like to share a guide for moving towards a more environmentally friendly wardrobe and the outlook necessary for continuing to advocate for our fashion sense while, more importantly, advocating for the planet.

“If you look back in history of the women who are most memorable and most stylish, they were never the followers of fashion. They were the ones who were unique in their style, breakers of the rules. They were authentic, genuine, original. They were not following the trends.” —Nina Garcia.

Phase 1: Evaluate + Cleanse

The saying is true that "the most sustainable closet is the one you already own." However, it's entirely possible that it might not be the one that brings you the most joy. It's important to assess your current wardrobe, keep the coveted items you love and wear, and rid yourself of those that get no use, don't fit, or are falling apart. And yes, you should probably also get rid of the clothes that still have tags (because if you haven't worn them yet, will you ever?). Stay organized and split the items into piles to donate or sell and then do so accordingly. Utilize your local donation establishments or second-hand boutiques, and explore any and all online options available to you.

Phase 2: Mindset + Philosophy

Purging a wardrobe can be a complicated affair, and time will be your friend as you embark on your journey to a more sustainable closet. I have found it to be entirely beneficial to cultivate a less-is-more mindset when approaching your wardrobe. Consider wising up to the philosophy of a capsule wardrobe. This concept builds upon multifunctional items, a set color palette, and a vibe designed for your ethos, body, and lifestyle.

Once adopting a more intentional philosophy with your wardrobe, identify if there are certain pieces you feel are missing. I advise one to think of purchasing things for the season and the decade of one's life. For example, as a woman in her early 30's, the pieces I am looking to buy are ones that I will enjoy and feel good in throughout my 30s.

Phase 3: Research + Ethics

The next step is research. The Good Trade has become my number one resource for all things sustainable fashion and Ethical Made Easy is an excellent database that makes it easy to discover brands that align with ethical fashion principles. It’s vital to support the companies that are doing the necessary work for positive change, as greenwashing is now common-practice among fashion companies in hopes of staying in the game.

A good habit to get into would be to look for a sustainability page on any given brand's website. The more details, the better, and certifications are always a great sign. To dive even deeper, check the fabrics the company is using for their garments. I find a shocking number of companies that claim to be sustainable yet are still working with synthetic fibers. Identify what your personal ethics are and dictate your shopping ethos around them.

Phase 4: Save, Go Slow, and CPW

Due to the progressive ethical standards that go hand-in-hand with many sustainable clothing brands, the cost tends to be a bit on the pricier side. And with good reason, as this is how they can afford their workers a livable wage and ensure their factories and practices to be eco-friendly. My advice when building your wardrobe is to move slowly and mindfully. Curating a wardrobe that encompasses individual style and ethics takes time, which is perfect because it allows one the time to save up for such items. Buying well-made and environmentally friendly clothes should be looked at as an investment, both for you and for the planet.

A neat concept to negate sustainable fashion's sometimes shocking price tag is to figure out the COST PER WEAR of any given item. To calculate the CPW, you divide the cost of the item by the number of times you wear it. The idea is that with better quality pieces, you will actually end up saving money in the long run, as opposed to continually buying cheaper clothes that fall apart after a fortnight of wear.

Oppositionally, most second-hand shops are very affordable. When saving is not entirely an option or when you need an item asap, abiding by this shopping principle can come in handy.

“Every time you spend money, you’re casting a vote for the kind of world you want.”

—Anna Lappe.

Additional Environmental Considerations

• Keep in mind that it could be more eco-friendly to try the clothes on in person when you find yourself ready to make the purchase, especially if you can utilize public transit to visit the store. By trying the item on, you can save on the carbon emissions for the delivery process and the potential need to extend that by making a return.

• When doing laundry, pay attention to the wash tag. Abiding by this kindly offered advice, your pieces will last much longer than not. Additionally, invest in a Guppyfriend wash bag to catch the micro-plastics that come from your current or second-hand synthetic clothing. By utilizing this or any other filtering system, they will prevent the micro-plastics from entering our water sources when washing your clothes.

• Lastly, become a proud clothes re-wearer! Hang your outfits afterward to air out so they can be worn multiple times without having to wash. It's such a good habit to adopt!

The goal is to buy items you're going to love for years, feel great and look fabulous in, all while protecting the planet.

“There is hope – I’ve seen it – but it does not come from the governments or corporations, it comes from the people. The people who have been unaware are now starting to wake up, and once we become aware we change. We can change and people are ready for change.”

—Greta Thunberg.

“Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.”

—Coco Chanel.

---